(Selected from the book, Taco Megaregion: The Essential Guide to San Diego & Tijuana’s Best Tacos by A Gringo in Mexico’s W. Scott Koenig)
Birria de res, a savory beef stew with roots in the state of Jalisco, has experienced a culinary evolution—one that’s led it to the heart of Tijuana, across the frontera to Southern California and beyond. The journey of birria de res is a story of adaptation, ingenuity and compelling flavor that has captivated taco lovers on both sides of the border.
Traditionally made with chivo, in Tijuana, birria de res emerged as a response to the scarcity of goat in the region. Cooks in Tijuana, known for their ingenuity, adapted the recipe using beef, which was more readily available and affordable. This adaptation didn’t just make do; it thrived.
Birria de res has become somewhat of a staple in the border city, and Tijuanenses beeline to their favorite Birrieria every morning to get their fix. Here, it’s considered a “breakfast taco”, and—given that most spots stew their beef overnight—they often run out by the early afternoon.
Here are five of Tijuana’s best birria tacos you need to try.
1. Tacos de Birria del Rio
Tacos de Birria del Rio has been elevating birria de res to an art form since 1986. The crowd of regulars in the colorful dining area is testament to the quality of the tacos here, particularly in a city with dozens of options for this Tijuana specialty.
Guadalupe Victoria 20, Zona Rio, 22010 Tijuana, Mon-Fri: 4 a.m. – 2 p.m., Sat-Sun: 2 a.m. – 2 p.m., +52 664 585 5452, Cash only.
2. Tacos de Birria El Sabroso
Tacos de Birria El Sabroso is one of the few taquerias in Tijuana to offer birria de lengua—in which beef tongue is stewed with the same chiles, aromatics and spices used for the birria de res. Tacos are best finished with one of the popular street cart’s three house-made salsas.
Av. Aguascalientes 2237, Colonia Madero (Cacho), 22040 Tijuana, Daily: 7 a.m. – 2:15 p.m., +52 664 821 7971, Cash only.
3. Tacos de Birria Martin
Martin and his speedy team of taqueros efficiently combine rich beef birria with unctuous nervio for one of the city’s best tacos of its kind. Ask for the taco “con todo” and cilantro, chopped onion and a spicy house salsa are added.
C. 8va. Miguel Hidalgo, San Pablo CTM, Melchor Ocampo, 22000 Tijuana, Daily: 6:30 a.m. – 2 p.m., + 52 664 279 9378, Cash only.
4. Tacos Fitos
Located outside the city’s colorful Mercado Hidalgo, this popular cart’s taqueros are known for their agility. They make a show of tossing a spoonful of consomé across the span of several feet into an awaiting corn tortilla filled with birria de res and fried tripas held in the other hand.
Francisco Javier Mina 1695, Zona Rio, 22010 Tijuana, Daily: 5 a.m. – 1:30 p.m., Cash only.
5. Birria “Si”
The specialty at Birria “Si” is Poblano-style spiced, stewed and shredded beef, notable for its pronounced flavor of cumin and cinnamon. Just say “si” when asked “¿con todo?”, and onions, cilantro and shredded cabbage—another hallmark of the Poblano style—are added.
Belisario Domínguez y o C. 11 329, Libertad, 22400 Tijuana, Mon, Wed-Sat: 6 a.m. – 7:30 p.m., Sun & Tue: 6 a.m. – 4 p.m., +52 664 234 0887, Cash Only.
For all 120 of San Diego & Tijuana’s best tacos, get your copy of the new book, Taco Megaregion: The Essential Guide to San Diego & Tijuana’s Best Tacos. Now on sale at www.taco-megaregion.com.
